All Photos Courtesy of Teagan Durkin
Tucked away beneath an awning, and waiting for lucky passersby, is Kuih Cafe, an NYC institution that brings Malaysian and Southeast Asian classic desserts and savory dishes to 46 Eldridge Street. Run by a mother and daughter duo who brought the first Malaysian cafe to NYC, Kuih Cafe draws its namesake from the word “kuih,” which is a broadly Southeast Asian name for a variety of bite-sized snacks, such as pudding, cookies, or other sweets.
Along with outdoor seating, Kuih Cafe has a two-person counter, though the indoor space is too tight to accommodate more than five customers at a time. Although tightly cozy, Kuih Cafe has a vibrant display case, with several repeat dishes like the lemon jelly cheesecake or kuih ambon pandan, along with a weekly changing dessert menu that features several smaller bites of signature dishes.
Kuih Cafe’s main appeal lies in its ability to take flavors like pandan, ube, or coconut plum sugar, which are not typically available in American supermarkets, and translate them into familiarly indulgent mousse desserts or cheesecakes. For example, the lemon jelly cheesecake delivers the sweet sharpness of leon, forcing a sour smile upon the taster’s face, combining the sweetness of a traditional cheesecake base and graham cracker crust with its titular layer of lemon jelly. Even dishes that are most likely unfamiliar to those without much experience with Malaysian cuisine, such as the ice chendol or sweets containing pandan, are presented in a beautifully accessible and delicious manner.
The cafe’s main drawback rests in its limited opening time, as one can only visit from Friday to Sunday. However, absence makes the heart grow fonder and the stomach grow hungrier.
Junior Teagan Durkin is the opinions editor, her email is tdurkin@fandm.edu.